Boozy luncheon with Sherman #1 – “Arlequin”

Sherman is my lunch companion. Once a week we have a long boozy lunch to soften the bitter edges of life. Usually it’s somewhere moderately nice; on occasion it’s a dive. The destination is dependent on our moods and, to a lesser degree, whether or not Sherman has a groupon for the place. A beer and wine license, however, is the one absolute requisite.

Sherman is a big deal in the media industry. Media, you ask. Which medium? I’m not going to tell you. He’s also a lascivious old fuck. That, on the other hand – sex is infinitely more interesting than work – is completely within bounds.


Arlequin Cafe & Food To Go
384 Hayes St. SF 94102
At first he wasn’t too keen on me blogging about our boozy luncheons but when I told him I’d disguise him, his deep-rooted narcissism took hold and he slurred me his blessing. We’d polished off a nice bottle of Sonoma rosé by that point and had progressed halfway into a curious central coast Monastrel, so technically he was drunk and in no condition to make agreements.

How could I not take advantage of a golden opportunity like that?

Reuben-esque perfection

For years I’ve been trying to find a decent reuben in San Francisco. Not too diligently, mind you; mainly when it came to mind. Having found a supreme incarnation of the reuben at Arlequin, in Hayes Valley, I went on and on to Sherman about the corrupting tenderness of the beef and its sublime bookends of toast.

Arlequin entrance‘Coupons be damned,’ he said briskly and insisted we make a visit to sot ourselves on the patio last Friday afternoon, resplendent as the City was in the early shimmerings of Spring.

Unfortunately – and to Sherman’s blessedly short-lived annoyance – when we got to the counter we were told they’d run out of light rye. But would we like the reuben on a levain… Levain?! Sherman looked at me as if someone had just keyed his new Mercedes S-class.

Compensation in the most serendipitous of forms…

Blessedly, it only took Sherman about 15 minutes to get over his disappointment at not being able to savor such a well-endorsed reuben – we decided to defer such a tasting until they had the proper bread – at which point the rosé had begun its soothing effects. Food arrived and in no time Sherman’s fingers were dripping with tomato sauce from his meatball sandwich, served on a soft baguette-like roll.

‘This is damn good,’ he marveled, having forgotten his dismay over the reuben with nearly the mental dexterity with which he’d forgotten that he’d ever been married to his first wife.

Embracing chaos

In his review of a new exhibition of Claude Monet at the Grand Palais in Paris (Harpers, Jan 2011), John Berger notes that the great Impressionist “once revealed that he wanted to paint not things in themselves but the air that touched things – the enveloping air. The enveloping air,” he explains, “offers continuity and infinite extension.” It transforms a moment “into an eternity.”

A few months ago I took up yoga again, after a brief flirtation 25 years ago with asanas and pranayama, which is the exercise of moving air (one’s breath) through your body as you move into yogic positions. Each day of practice I dedicate the session to a different goal or emphasis: for example, focus, patience, being less critical, compassion… Today’s yoga practice was dedicated to embracing all aspects of my life – the mixed bag of how I make my living (a clumsy structure of orderly disorder governing multiple projects) paired with, and in constant conflict with, my writing. In other words, I dedicated today’s practice to embracing chaos.

For me, chaos is the underlying structure of the universe. It is randomness overlaid on discernible and more often than not indiscernible structures. It is conflict and dichotomy. Birth and destruction. Love and contempt. Darkness and light. Chaos is the infinite extension; it is Monet’s enveloping air.

Cleaning past

Doing my best to drag the weekend out. Napping helps extend the day. Counter lunches help – first at Chez Maman late on Good Friday then Delfino Saturday afternoon after cleaning out the past.

Tossing old unnecessary memorabilia from boxes marked “journal” helps. Winnowing down the scraps of the past, reducing the cubic footage of air taken up by those remnants helps.

A successful delving into the recipe clippings helps: Saturday’s dinner of pork in ad hoc bbq sauce, lemon quinoa and braised broccoli yielded a successful assemblage perfected by a serendipitous discovery in the wine aisle at Whole Foods: Phantom, a blend of Petite Sirah, old vine Zin and Cab France that coats your tongue with an adult sort of candy. It was just compensation for Friday night’s dinner of cornichons, olives and a remnant wedge of Point Reyes Blue.

Sometimes that’s all it takes: a very simple confrontation of things that once were, and are now no longer dangerous.

Gerbera daisies and a glass of Bogle 'Phantom'

Gerbera daisies and a glass of Bogle 'Phantom'